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      01-29-2018, 03:31 PM   #1
AlexNFH
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Crank Hub solution feedback/discussion

I would like to get some feedback from the community about the current crank hub solutions that are being offered by Gintani and MAXIMUM PSI.

I am a little nervous pulling the trigger on one of them given the history. They are not that cheap and the install is also lengthy with a day and a half.

I do know that the cost of any of these will be way cheaper than replacing an engine if something goes wrong.
Which one do you think is better and why or is it like you cannot go wrong with either of them?

Thank you very much,
Alex
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      01-29-2018, 08:34 PM   #2
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Presumably stock cars are ok - it's high power tuned cars that might have an issue.
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      01-29-2018, 09:50 PM   #3
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I think there are alot of vehicles not reported on the forum.
I deal with automotive dealerships for work on a weekly basis and when I visit some local BMW dealerships I have talked to tech's and service advisors that I know.
They do a fair amount of repairs due to failures on stock cars.
I have not asked about this topic in months, I think I will next time I visit to see if the solution that BMW changed "increased torque spec, revised friction washer" was enough for the S55 on an OEM level
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      01-29-2018, 10:15 PM   #4
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IMO, the Gintani design is better, but both should easily be strong enough to handle any power level.
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      01-29-2018, 10:19 PM   #5
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Is this predominantly a 6MT rather DCT issue ?
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      01-29-2018, 10:24 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Modaddict79 View Post
Is this predominantly a 6MT rather DCT issue ?
Yes.
I also hear that the common failure on DCT is due to excessive "kick down" in 3rd / 4th gear.

I find Steve Dinan's information interesting where he notes that there is another area of concern within the engine. Being that he supports BMW race teams, he has no doubt experienced and has the resources to really fix an issue if need be.

"Due to the design of the crankshaft, it is known to have the timing chain sprocket spin on the end of the crankshaft, causing the cams to go out of time. In extreme cases, the valves can hit the pistons, causing catastrophic damage. Furthermore, the S55 only has half of a normal crankshaft thrust bearing. To ensure durability we also machine the block to accommodate a full circle thrust main"

https://carbahnautoworks.com/product/s55-3-0l-rebuild/
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      01-30-2018, 08:04 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Modaddict79 View Post
Is this predominantly a 6MT rather DCT issue ?
The majority of people that have this issue have a DCT
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      01-30-2018, 01:42 PM   #8
AlexNFH
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Thank you all. I just wanted to get some opinions on the different crank hubs that are being offered. It was not supposed to be a discussion about the failures themselves as we already have a quite lengthy thread about it.

I do prefer the Gintani one piece design but it is also quite a bit more $s than the Maximum PSI solution which uses the two hardened pins.
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      01-30-2018, 02:15 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlexNFH View Post
Thank you all. I just wanted to get some opinions on the different crank hubs that are being offered. It was not supposed to be a discussion about the failures themselves as we already have a quite lengthy thread about it.

I do prefer the Gintani one piece design but it is also quite a bit more $s than the Maximum PSI solution which uses the two hardened pins.
I too am interested in the feedback on both available options.
I only know 1 person who received the Gintani update but then sold the car 1 week later.
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      01-30-2018, 04:04 PM   #10
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I haven't heard of a failure in a long time on the boards.. Is this even a thing anymore?
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      01-30-2018, 05:10 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schnell1982 View Post
I too am interested in the feedback on both available options.
I only know 1 person who received the Gintani update but then sold the car 1 week later.
I have the gintani keyed one piece on my car. I would go with mikes design but at the time my car spun I didn't have that option. It's also a lot cheaper lol. So far the gintani has held up great on my car.
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      01-30-2018, 08:13 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ///F80M3 View Post
I have the gintani keyed one piece on my car. I would go with mikes design but at the time my car spun I didn't have that option. It's also a lot cheaper lol. So far the gintani has held up great on my car.
Mind if I ask if you are manual or DCT, your mods and estimate WHP & FTLB to get an idea of how many miles you have put on the update ?

I have a friend with the original TPG kit when it was 1st released and his DCT M3 has JB4 staked on flash tune, methanol injection and typical bolt on mods and he tracks the car once a month and it never failed.
So I'm curious on all the setups of course
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      01-30-2018, 09:15 PM   #13
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Sure doesn't seem like much of an issue. You rarely if ever hear of failures on here.
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      01-31-2018, 10:00 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ///F80M3 View Post
I have the gintani keyed one piece on my car. I would go with mikes design but at the time my car spun I didn't have that option. It's also a lot cheaper lol. So far the gintani has held up great on my car.
May I ask why you would pick Mike's design over Gintani's? Price as it is a lot cheaper than Gintani's solution.
Gintani's is one piece keyed over 2 pieces with pins.
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      01-31-2018, 12:45 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlexNFH View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by ///F80M3 View Post
I have the gintani keyed one piece on my car. I would go with mikes design but at the time my car spun I didn't have that option. It's also a lot cheaper lol. So far the gintani has held up great on my car.
May I ask why you would pick Mike's design over Gintani's? Price as it is a lot cheaper than Gintani's solution.
Gintani's is one piece keyed over 2 pieces with pins.
Gintani has one pin and Mike's design has two pins one on each side. I also live 40min away from mike's shop so it would make sense for me to get his crank hub fix and save money too since it's cheaper. Can't go wrong with either one imo
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      02-01-2018, 12:27 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ///F80M3 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlexNFH View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by ///F80M3 View Post
I have the gintani keyed one piece on my car. I would go with mikes design but at the time my car spun I didn't have that option. It's also a lot cheaper lol. So far the gintani has held up great on my car.
May I ask why you would pick Mike's design over Gintani's? Price as it is a lot cheaper than Gintani's solution.
Gintani's is one piece keyed over 2 pieces with pins.
Gintani has one pin and Mike's design has two pins one on each side. I also live 40min away from mike's shop so it would make sense for me to get his crank hub fix and save money too since it's cheaper. Can't go wrong with either one imo
The main problem is that the crankshaft has two spinning pieces that, if they fall out of sync more likely due to a more powerful than stock engine (I have Gintani tune + downpipes) then the engine will go. Gintani's one piece solution seems to eliminate the chance of that happening.
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      02-01-2018, 10:35 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cartOC View Post
The main problem is that the crankshaft has two spinning pieces that, if they fall out of sync more likely due to a more powerful than stock engine (I have Gintani tune + downpipes) then the engine will go. Gintani's one piece solution seems to eliminate the chance of that happening.
Actually the main fix was the pins that lock onto the end of the crank. The crankshaft is keyed so that's not the where it was spinning. The cars that spun with the keyed hub was because there was nothing to lock it onto the end of the crank. The pin is the real fix and both have it.
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      02-01-2018, 01:56 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ///F80M3 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by cartOC View Post
The main problem is that the crankshaft has two spinning pieces that, if they fall out of sync more likely due to a more powerful than stock engine (I have Gintani tune + downpipes) then the engine will go. Gintani's one piece solution seems to eliminate the chance of that happening.
Actually the main fix was the pins that lock onto the end of the crank. The crankshaft is keyed so that's not the where it's was spinning. The cars that spun with the keyed hub was because there was nothing to lock it onto the end of the crank. The pin is the real fix and both have it.
Ah. How much will Mike's be?
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      02-01-2018, 01:58 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cartOC View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by ///F80M3 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by cartOC View Post
The main problem is that the crankshaft has two spinning pieces that, if they fall out of sync more likely due to a more powerful than stock engine (I have Gintani tune + downpipes) then the engine will go. Gintani's one piece solution seems to eliminate the chance of that happening.
Actually the main fix was the pins that lock onto the end of the crank. The crankshaft is keyed so that's not the where it's was spinning. The cars that spun with the keyed hub was because there was nothing to lock it onto the end of the crank. The pin is the real fix and both have it.
Ah. How much will Mike's be?
Idk exactly. You can email him at sales@maximumpsi.com
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