[obzen]

Going to do a brake upgrade soon to 370/345 on my F36.

Has anyone had the dealer code the m perf brakes and knows how much that runs - ballpark?

Or if there’s a reputable remote service that does this?

I do have ENET cable but haven’t found a solid step by step guide to be comfortable enough to do DIY it.

[_ObiJon]

I've been told the Bimmergeeks ProTool app can code this, once by a knowledgeable post in the coding section and once by personal outreach to Bimmergeeks directly.

There are remote coding services but ProTool interested me because I don't have a laptop.

[obzen]

Thanks for the pointer. I contacted them to see how much it would cost to do it remotely. The PotTool app seems to be available on Google store only, buying a license might run me the same price the dealer would charge.
Btw I called the dealer and they asked for $215 for the brake coding in case someone is wondering.

[obzen]

Originally Posted by _ObiJon

I've been told the Bimmergeeks ProTool app can code this, once by a knowledgeable post in the coding section and once by personal outreach to Bimmergeeks directly.

There are remote coding services but ProTool interested me because I don't have a laptop.

They just responded and said they don’t do remote coding unless I have the tool. Might have to bite it and take it in to the stealer. Unless I find someone else.

[visionaut]

I believe you do not need to recode the brake bias for upgrading to either the MP brakes or F80 370mm brakes if your car came with 340mm front Brembos..

[obzen]

Originally Posted by visionaut

I believe you do not need to recode the brake bias for upgrading to either the MP brakes or F80 370mm brakes if your car came with 340mm front Brembos..

There are mixed reviews opinions on it, I’ve heard it stiffens the feel of the pedal. I’ll run without it post install and determine if I need it or not

[E90lova]

Originally Posted by obzen

There are mixed reviews opinions on it, I’ve heard it stiffens the feel of the pedal. I’ll run without it post install and determine if I need it or not

Installed the F80 front kit this week and the result was better braking with no recode. I don't think it is needed. I will install the Endless 650 fluid in a week or too for better line pressure. Car stops very well now.

[obzen]

Originally Posted by E90lova

Installed the F80 front kit this week and the result was better braking with no recode. I don't think it is needed. I will install the Endless 650 fluid in a week or too for better line pressure. Car stops very well now.

Thanks for the feedback, I’ll run without the recode for a while to see how it is. Just curious what kind of rotors and pads did you end up with?

[visionaut]

Originally Posted by obzen

There are mixed reviews opinions on it, I’ve heard it stiffens the feel of the pedal. I’ll run without it post install and determine if I need it or not

Not an opinion. The brake bias code is the exact same for the 340 & 370 Brembos.
Now if one didn’t have the factory 340s already they’d need to code to get the proper bias…

[obzen]

Originally Posted by visionaut

Not an opinion. The brake bias code is the exact same for the 340 & 370 Brembos.
Now if one didn’t have the factory 340s already they’d need to code to get the proper bias…

According to you I won’t need to then since I have grey brembo 340 mm front and single Bosch 1 piston rear

[B58 parts]

I don't think that's true at all. When I installed the m performance kit it was clear to code the spbr option.

"Include SPBR option in the ho-wort folder, recode vo to VCm"

If you search around for spbr and ho-wort you'll find it.

[obzen]

Originally Posted by YuminNuman

I don't think that's true at all. When I installed the m performance kit it was clear to code the spbr option.

"Include SPBR option in the ho-wort folder, recode vo to VCm"

If you search around for spbr and ho-wort you'll find it.

Did you code it yourself and what brakes did you have before m performance?

[B58 parts]

Yes I did it myself. I had the gray brakes the big 340 ones, changed to the bigger yellow m performance ones.

You have to add the sport brake option. Get esys and the cable, it's all really easy.

After coding it, with the laptop still connected, I fired up ista and used the service function to activate the ABS pump and get a good bleed, since the lines were open. You have to do that too. Yes you need a computer to bleed brakes, if you introduce air into the system.

I posted about it if this section, if you search a bit for spbr ho-wort you'll find a lot about it

[obzen]

Originally Posted by YuminNuman

Yes I did it myself. I had the gray brakes the big 340 ones, changed to the bigger yellow m performance ones.

You have to add the sport brake option. Get esys and the cable, it's all really easy.

I’ve got the cable just need esys. Would you want to assist ? I’ll gladly Venmo you ha

[B58 parts]

When you buy your car there's a build sheet that lists all the options you have. This is coded into the car as the vo, vehicle order, and it drives how things behave. Sbpr is the option for the sport brakes, if you got the track package with the blue brakes you would have that on your VO. So it would be logical to keep it in sync. And since you reflash the DSC module, I would guess it affects how the ABS computer behaves.

I mean you don't have to do it probably, but since you spent over 2k on the brakes you might as well take the 5 minutes and get the computer right so you don't have any weird issues and it's working as it should. All of the DIY posts I read all of them said to do the coding when you're done

[obzen]

Originally Posted by YuminNuman

When you buy your car there's a build sheet that lists all the options you have. This is coded into the car as the vo, vehicle order, and it drives how things behave. Sbpr is the option for the sport brakes, if you got the track package with the blue brakes you would have that on your VO. So it would be logical to keep it in sync. And since you reflash the DSC module, I would guess it affects how the ABS computer behaves.

I mean you don't have to do it probably, but since you spent over 2k on the brakes you might as well take the 5 minutes and get the computer right so you don't have any weird issues and it's working as it should.

Makes sense, I’ll look more into it when I do the swap in a week.

[Eschmacher]

The recode helps the pedal performance and I highly recommend you do it. As said above, it's a very simple process in esys. I believe you can do it in ISTA as well, it should be under retrofits.

[obzen]

Update:

Got the brakes fitted yesterday and I’m super happy with the setup. Looks amazing.

I am not 100% sold on the brake pedal feel though. I think I may have to do the coding. It feels a bit soft if I have to be honest. Not sure if it’s because I already expected it and if it’s placebo.

Again if anyone is willing to help code remotely I’ll compensate I have an enet cable and a MAC with a windows VM along with a rj45 adapter.

[_ObiJon]

Looks great. Let us know if coding helps and which method you went with.

[tw12321]

Originally Posted by obzen

Update:

Got the brakes fitted yesterday and I’m super happy with the setup. Looks amazing.

I am not 100% sold on the brake pedal feel though. I think I may have to do the coding. It feels a bit soft if I have to be honest. Not sure if it’s because I already expected it and if it’s placebo.

Again if anyone is willing to help code remotely I’ll compensate I have an enet cable and a MAC with a windows VM along with a rj45 adapter.

I’m in same boat, just did mine this weekend on f36 as well. Gonna try to figure out coding tonight will let you know how it goes

[obzen]

Originally Posted by tw12321

I’m in same boat, just did mine this weekend on f36 as well. Gonna try to figure out coding tonight will let you know how it goes

awesome man please let me know how it goes!!

BTW which rotors did you go with ? Slotted/dimpled? If so have you noticed the ticking sound when you drive with window down next to a wall / barrier / objects?
I came to find out that the the M perf brakes are known for this, blah.

[tw12321]

Originally Posted by obzen

awesome man please let me know how it goes!!

BTW which rotors did you go with ? Slotted/dimpled? If so have you noticed the ticking sound when you drive with window down next to a wall / barrier / objects?
I came to find out that the the M perf brakes are known for this, blah.

Have not noticed this but have only done maybe 30 miles so far on them just to bed the brakes then to get to work today. I bought the orange kit so the ones included for the front are slotted and dimpled and in the rear I bought the same slotted/dimpled rotors but the hat size was wrong when I went to install so being Memorial Day weekend and needing to get my car off jacks and garage space back I just went to the dealership in the morning and overpaid for the blank 345mm rotors for the back as would have had to order the slotted dimpled to get here some time this week. Not ideal looks wise but I guess some people claim will be a bit better performance/durability anyways so oh well