[Westersund]

BIMMERPOST / Classifieds

Asking Price:

USD 380.00

Item Interest

So I've been developing brake cooling kits as a hobby for a few years now and I just finished a complete front axle kit for the F8X series M2/M3/M4 (Also Comp/CS/GTS) and thought that might be of interest to some of you.

If you've owned a Z4 M you may recognize me from that section of this website. You can find that thread here: https://www.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1634387

Or my thread over at Z4 Forums over in the UK: https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=117884

Or my OG thread over at Rejsa in Sweden where I've made a few kits for different BMWs: https://rejsa.nu/forum/viewtopic.php?t=112776

Enough of the introduction and on to the brake cooling kit. The kit consists of 3D-printed (PETG) ducts and air guides for the lower control arms and lasercut backing plates with 3D-printed funnels (PETG). The backing plates are made of 1 mm steel and have bent edges for added rigidity and dimple died hole(s). Hose holders for the control arm and kingpin is included in the kit. All hardware such as bolts/nuts/washers/zip ties are included in the kit, all metal parts are painted (backing plates with heat resistant paint and other metal parts with metal protective paint) and the backing plates come pre-assembled. The connections on the ducts/funnels can be had in 2" and 2,5".

No hose or hose clamps are included in the kit, they are only in the picture for illustration purposes.

Payment is made with PayPal, if you want "Buyers Protection" that's on your end (add 5.5%).

I can also sell half kits. Clubsport backing plates with funnels are 160$ and control arm ducts/air guides/hose holders are 220$.

Race backing plates with funnels are 270$ and control arm ducts/hose holders are 230$.

Shipping:
- Shipping of a front Clubsport kit (up to 2 kg) as of the 21st of February is 22$ to the US and Canada.
- The Race kit requires an additional small package up to 0,25 kg which cost 11$. (An up to 3 kg package cost 53$, very strange but it is what it is)
- Shipping of a rear kit will fit in an up to 1 kg package which cost 16$.


*** Complete front Race kit in 2/2,5", 500$ ***



What you need except for the kit itself
- Aprox. 80 cm of chosen inner diameter (ID) hose/side for the brake disc ducts, total of aprox. 160 cm.
- Aprox. 30 cm 2" (51 mm) ID hose/side for the caliper ducts, total of aprox. 60 cm.
- 8x hose clamps of appropriate size.


*** Complete front Clubsport kit in 2", 380$ ***



What you need except for the kit itself
- Aprox. 80 cm 2" (51 mm) ID hose/side for the brake disc duct, total of aprox. 160 cm.
- 4x hose clamps of appropriate size, 6x if you want to use hose clamps for the knuckle hose holders.


*** Complete front Clubsport kit in 2,5", 380$ ***



What you need except for the kit itself
- Aprox. 80 cm 2,5" (63 mm) ID hose/side for the brake disc duct, total of aprox. 160 cm.
- 4x hose clamps of appropriate size, 6x if you want to use hose clamps for the knuckle hose holders.


Some pictures of the Clubsport kit installed. The connectors are a little rough (cosmetic) on these prototypes and I will fine tune the raft/print further. *The finish is very much improved, see pictures on the other pages.*









Here you can see the channels under the front bumper that direct air towards the control arms and brakes (OEM):


Picture of the hose holders:



*** Complete rear kit in 2" (not available in 2,5"), 250$ *** But if you purchase, or have prior purchased, a front kit the price for a rear kit is 200$.









What you need except for the kit itself
- Aprox. 80 cm 2" (51 mm) ID hose/side for the brake disc ducts, total of aprox. 160 cm.
- 4x hose clamps of appropriate size.


*** Extras ***

Mesh inserts - 10$/pair.






Covers for the control arm ducts for those who want to leave the ducting on for winter driving. Holes in the center of the cover to secure the cover onto the duct with a zip tie, the cover itself will fit snug but the zip tie is for 100% secure fit. Relief cuts for easier removal. 20$/Pair.






*** Installation Guides ***
BMW F8X M Clubsport Front Brake Cooling Kit - https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/h79cw...=tv4z34q2&dl=0

BMW F8X M Race Front Brake Cooling Kit - https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/gea6b...=pnf2l9vv&dl=0

[F87source]

Very nice!

[Westersund]

Originally Posted by F87source

Very nice!

Thank you!

[Westersund]

Due to it being tight and no real good place to tightening down the hose and let it flex in a good way I designed 2 hose holders that I will include in the kit, one is bent in 1,5 mm steel (mounts at lower control arms outer joint nut) and a 3D-printed one that is fit using the same cable ties as the ducts. (Note that the duct is a prototype one with the outlet offset to one side and on the final version it's in the middle and leaves more room for the hose to flex)

[F87source]

Originally Posted by Westersund

Due to it being tight and no real good place to tightening down the hose and let it flex in a good way I designed 2 hose holders that I will include in the kit, one is bent in 1,5 mm steel (mounts at lower control arms outer joint nut) and a 3D-printed one that is fit using the same cable ties as the ducts. (Note that the duct is a prototype one with the outlet offset to one side and on the final version it's in the middle and leaves more room for the hose to flex)

Very nice!

[Westersund]

Complete kit with the added, free of charge, hose holder for the control arms/uprights.




Hose holder for the uprights, to minimize the wear on the hose you can add some "padding" on the edges.




Hose holder for the control arms that uses 2 of the zip ties for the ducts.




Didn't install the backing plates on my car since this was only temporary for test fitting purposes (hose routing). Ideally you can use a hose clamp on the hose holder on the upright instead of a big zip tie I used, since it was only temporary.




Full lock to the left. The car is lifted with a jack so it's tighter between the control arm and the sway bar than when the car is on the ground (Correct me if I'm wrong).




Full lock to the right.

[F87source]

Originally Posted by Westersund

Complete kit with the added, free of charge, hose holder for the control arms/uprights.




Hose holder for the uprights, to minimize the wear on the hose you can add some "padding" on the edges.




Hose holder for the control arms that uses 2 of the zip ties for the ducts.




Didn't install the backing plates on my car since this was only temporary for test fitting purposes (hose routing). Ideally you can use a hose clamp on the hose holder on the upright instead of a big zip tie I used, since it was only temporary.




Full lock to the left. The car is lifted with a jack so it's tighter between the control arm and the sway bar than when the car is on the ground (Correct me if I'm wrong).




Full lock to the right.

Very very nice.

Btw where is the air ducted? To the disc surface or to the hat? Because you need to duct air into the hat so that the disc doesn't get cooled unevenly and crack.

https://www.essexparts.com/news-blog...n-my-track-car

[Fabb]

Originally Posted by F87source

Very very nice.

Btw where is the air ducted? To the disc surface or to the hat? Because you need to duct air into the hat so that the disc doesn't get cooled unevenly and crack.

https://www.essexparts.com/news-blog...n-my-track-car

Also curious, it'd be better if he can show a picture of rotor with shield installed

[Westersund]

Originally Posted by F87source

Very very nice.

Btw where is the air ducted? To the disc surface or to the hat? Because you need to duct air into the hat so that the disc doesn't get cooled unevenly and crack.

https://www.essexparts.com/news-blog...n-my-track-car

Originally Posted by Fabb

Also curious, it'd be better if he can show a picture of rotor with shield installed

Sorry my bad, I've been taking things on and off a few times and sending pictures to different people and updating threads that I lose track. The air is directed into the hat, I don't have a picture from the back with the rotor installed but you can see the air outlet is just at the edge of the hub. I made the backing plate as tight as I could to the upright in order to get the airflow into the hat.

[F87source]

Originally Posted by Westersund

Sorry my bad, I've been taking things on and off a few times and sending pictures to different people and updating threads that I lose track. The air is directed into the hat, I don't have a picture from the back with the rotor installed but you can see the air outlet is just at the edge of the hub. I made the backing plate as tight as I could to the upright in order to get the airflow into the hat.

Very nice!

[F87source]

You know if you could upgrade your kit a bit more to add air deflectors to push some air onto the calipers themselves it would be even better and likely stop the calipers from changing color.

Btw do the factory dust shields still fit?

[Westersund]

Originally Posted by F87source

You know if you could upgrade your kit a bit more to add air deflectors to push some air onto the calipers themselves it would be even better and likely stop the calipers from changing color.

Btw do the factory dust shields still fit?

I don't really see the point in cooling the calipers to avoid them changing color. However a cooler brake disc equals less heat transfer to the caliper and that will most likely help with the changing color problem as well.

You remove the OE dust shield and replace them with my backing plates, I guess you could modify to fit both. Removing the OE dust shield will further help with cooling beacuse of more air flow and it won't trap the heat inside the wheel. An added bonus is less heat transfer to the wheel and less tire pressure increase.

[F87source]

Originally Posted by Westersund

I don't really see the point in cooling the calipers to avoid them changing color. However a cooler brake disc equals less heat transfer to the caliper and that will most likely help with the changing color problem as well.

You remove the OE dust shield and replace them with my backing plates, I guess you could modify to fit both. Removing the OE dust shield will further help with cooling beacuse of more air flow and it won't trap the heat inside the wheel. An added bonus is less heat transfer to the wheel and less tire pressure increase.

yeah a cooler disc most likely would help with color change, but I guess having that extra duct would be a nice little guarantee.

Removing the dust shields would benefit in terms of not trapping heat, but all that heat would now bake the seals on the suspension components which is not ideal. So if some how it could be retained that would be really nice.

[Westersund]

Originally Posted by F87source

yeah a cooler disc most likely would help with color change, but I guess having that extra duct would be a nice little guarantee.

Removing the dust shields would benefit in terms of not trapping heat, but all that heat would now bake the seals on the suspension components which is not ideal. So if some how it could be retained that would be really nice.

The seals of most suspension components are far away from the brake discs and my backing plates cover the steering knuckles to protect the boots from the heat. The boots on the lower control arms are further away from the brake discs than the steering knuckles and there will be more than enough air flowing around them to prevent them from getting too hot.

Will the wheel well be slightly hotter and deteriorate rubber boots/seals faster? Maybe.

With that said... Cooler brakes mean less wear on pads, less wear on discs, less heat transfer to the wheels/tires which equals less tire pressure increase which equals less tire wear etc.

So if you look at the benefits, if you're tracking your car, they add up and far surpass the risk of premature wear of the boots/seals. If you're tracking your car premature wear isn't exactly your main concern and the tie rods will be worn out before the boots/seals are a problem.

EDIT: The OE dust shields are mainly there to cover the brake discs from getting wet when driving in rainy conditions and catching inexperienced drivers off guards because of lack of initial bite in case of emergency braking. Protecting from heat and dust is a secondary function.

[F87source]

Originally Posted by Westersund

The seals of most suspension components are far away from the brake discs and my backing plates cover the steering knuckles to protect the boots from the heat. The boots on the lower control arms are further away from the brake discs than the steering knuckles and there will be more than enough air flowing around them to prevent them from getting too hot.

Will the wheel well be slightly hotter and deteriorate rubber boots/seals faster? Maybe.

With that said... Cooler brakes mean less wear on pads, less wear on discs, less heat transfer to the wheels/tires which equals less tire pressure increase which equals less tire wear etc.

So if you look at the benefits, if you're tracking you car, they add up and far surpass the risk of premature wear of the boots/seals. If you're tracking your car premature wear isn't exactly your main concern and the tie rods will be worn out before the boots/seals are a problem.

It's more for the dual duty users that also street drive their car. But fair points, again very nice kit!

[Westersund]

Originally Posted by F87source

It's more for the dual duty users that also street drive their car. But fair points, again very nice kit!

I appreciate the feedback and a different point of view. A dual duty car will always be a compromise, it's a balance between street and track. Street driving won't get your brake hot enough to increase deterioration of the boots/seals unless you continously brake very hard. Thanks!

[ZM2]

Is it easy to take the hose on/off for winter street driving, and all the components will stay solidly in place?

[F87source]

Originally Posted by ZM2

Is it easy to take the hose on/off for winter street driving, and all the components will stay solidly in place?

They actually sell flaps that open and close for air vent hose connections maybe if there's room down there that could be integrated, easy to open and close as needed.

[Westersund]

Originally Posted by ZM2

Is it easy to take the hose on/off for winter street driving, and all the components will stay solidly in place?

It's as easy as cutting the zip ties holding the hose and loosen the hose clamps. If you're changing tires (winter/summer) is really easy to install/remove everything once you get the hang of it, it's like 30 minutes per side tops. So not worth the risk of damaging the ducts during winter in my opinion.

[Westersund]

Originally Posted by F87source

They actually sell flaps that open and close for air vent hose connections maybe if there's room down there that could be integrated, easy to open and close as needed.

I can always design a simple block off "plate" for the opening in the ducts if someone wants it. Made mesh inserts over at Z4 part of this forum when a few people wanted them.

[F87source]

Originally Posted by Westersund

I can always design a simple block off "plate" for the opening in the ducts if someone wants it. Made mesh inserts over at Z4 part of this forum when a few people wanted them.

Yeah that would be nice! Mesh would be nice too

[Westersund]

Originally Posted by F87source

Yeah that would be nice! Mesh would be nice too

Said and done, meshes! 15$/pair.